Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
